California spring trip

Husband and I went down to the central coast of California for a few days to see the wildflowers, after all our rain and do some wine tasting (naturally).  I’ll quickly share some photos (click to enlarge)

We took the back roads where spring has definitely sprung– yellow fields of wild mustard, western lilacs in bloom and even the live oak have green leaves.  By June or July, all the green fields will turn brown in the brutal 100 degree heat of the central coast.  So this is the time of year to go.

We went to one of our favorite wineries, Dark Star, to celebrate both the Paso Robles Zinfandel weekend and the owner’s birthday…there was even a very good band.

We slowly roamed the area, visiting different vineyards – one filled with lavender plantings and another with a view of Heart Hill.  Everything was green, there were lambs frolicking in the fields, and we were ever so happy both from the beautiful weather and scenery and our afternoon wine tasting.  Not a bad way to spend a couple of days in the central coastal region of Paso Robles and San Louis Obispo.  This — we reminded ourselves — is why we live in California.

Our last days in France

August 16

Sunday is market day, so we head straight out the door and around the nearest corner into the open market…husband and I can’t resist a market.  And with Eric we buy ingredients for Sunday lunch (because it’s France and we eat lunch!). 

After another wonderful lunch complete with wine from our winery visit the day before, we again take a rest – it’s Sunday and everything is closed.

In the late afternoon, husband joins Alain in his cave-like workshop in the lower part of the building.  Alain has been building Adirondack chairs based on husband’s own hand-built versions on our deck.  There was an impressive hammer that was just a bit too tempting after almost 4 weeks of traveling together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving the others to their woodworking project, Eric and I went for a long walk along the river Isere and just as the sun was setting, I got some photos of the bridge in the waning light.

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August 17

We take off for the day to visit the area around the Rhone Valley.  Based on Eric and Alain’s recommendation we visit The Tour de Crest, the highest medieval keeps in France.  The hot climb up inside was worth it for these views.

 

Then we found Mirmande – a “plus beau village of France”.  (This list of villages in France is on my bucket list — complete listing HERE).

What is it about ancient stone villages?  Husband and I are just drawn to them. Here’s Mirmande and oui, c’est tres beau, n’est pas?

We got back to Romans in time to take Eric and Alain out to dinner as a small thank you for their hospitality.

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August 18

We depart Romans sur l’Isere and say goodbye for now to Eric and Alain.  They may come back to San Francisco some day, so we hope to see them again.  We head slowly back to Lyon, taking the backroads and enjoying the drive.  Sunflowers fields just gone past their bloom and ready for seed harvesting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We visit the Abbey of St. Antoine near Valence and as we sat inside the cool Abbey, we were treated to a pipe organ practice which reverberated through our bones.

And, finally a late lunch at an outdoor cafe – it’s France – we eat lunch.

 

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From here on we were in transit, back to Geneva by train and then we flew home early the next morning.

We’re back home now, dealing with laundry, a bit of jet lag and emails.

But we’re left with that weary but happy feeling of having had a great adventure, but glad to be home the land of good showers, ice and your very own bed.

Thanks everyone for reading along.  Now it’s back to books!

Our last few days in France

August 14

We sadly, pack up to leave Lausanne and take the train into Lyon, France – where we rented a car and drove south to Romans-Sur-l’Isere…why you may ask?  Back in 2011, when we went back East for a family wedding, Eric and Alain had requested a home exchange just for that time.  So they stayed in our home in what is called a non-simultaneous home exchange.  We were happy, as our house was occupied during our trip and someday we would go to their home.  This was the year.

Eric and Alain live in Romans Sur-l’Isere – a stone walled town dating back to the middle ages.  Especially wonderful is that their apartment is on the 2nd floor of the oldest building (actually a hotel) in Romans, built in the 15th century.  The building has a jaw dropping courtyard protected from the street and their home boasts ancient high ceilings and stone walls.   Here they are in front of their apartment and then various photos of their charmingly eccentric home.  (Check out our bedroom with the bed tucked into an old doorway.)

Because Eric and Alain were not traveling we had the pleasure of having them around. We stayed in their guest room and they served us a delicious dinner complete with an apricot crumble that cooled on the courtyard windowsill while we ate.

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August 15

Husband and I go exploring the town but under strict orders to be back by 1pm – because it’s France and we have lunch.  We are also asked to bring back bread, as it must be fresh every day.  The town has a fun clock tower where the man hammers the bell every hour.  There is town artwork which commemorates the towns later role as a major shoe manufacturer (there’s even a shoe museum – we gave it a pass.)

After lunch we were instructed to go and rest – which we did happily – and then in the late afternoon Eric and Allen took us on hike up to a small chapel that overlooked the Rhone River valley.  We ended the day at a local winery.

 

 

That’s all for now…

Aug 12

Very hot here, so we decide to head up and explore one more ancient little village  — St. Saphron.  It seems to be a little sort of artist community, see the surprise over the fence. Lovely and cool in the town, and as we climbed for a better view we discovered that the vines have now all been covered with netting to prevent the birds from eating all the grapes.

 

We then decide to head for the hills and a tower overlook on top of one the hills here.  We’d gone up there before but didn’t indulge in the great family style cafe at the top.  They are known for their fondue and cream desserts.

So we sat under the awnings enjoying the breezes from up there and had fondue and shared some local rose wine for our Linner.

Linner is our own made up word — like brunch – only lunch+dinner – usually taken in the late afternoon.  Attention all you hard working cooks out there, this is a great way to skip cooking dinner.

 

Finally remembered to take a photo of our apartment building, ours is the second level, far left where the two white awnings are down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note:  This will be the last post for awhile. We leave early Friday morning for the Lyon, France area and won’t have regular access to a computer.  Stay tuned,  I will update Travel Barmy with our last week of photos and stories when we’re back in San Francisco.  Thanks everyone for reading along.

 

 

 

We venture into France

August 11

We decide to visit Annecy, France – which I remember fondly from a business trip to Geneva 15 years ago.  One of my days off, I took the train into Annecy – known as the Venice of France.  Lots of bridges over canals, flowers, parks and lovely little shops.  It was October and I wandered the practically empty streets, did a little shopping and had lunch at a cafe right next to the canal – it was a great day.  I wanted husband to see it, and so we drove over – only 1 1/2 hours from Lausanne.

Well, let me tell you Annecy in August is a whole different animal than in October.  Much to our dismay, it was quite hot and the streets were packed with hordes of wandering tourists.  So we quickly directed ourselves into the back streets and quieter parts.  Still a lovely city and we enjoyed just walking around.  I found a couple of nice shops, we walked through the market, looked in all the bakery windows and enjoyed a plat jour lunch at a very good cafe.  Here are the photos — just ignore all the hot and sweaty tourists who intruded into my carefully composed photos – especially the husband photo-bomb in the last shot.

 

Had a reviving coffee-tea break and headed back home.  Over 90° by the time we bailed at 5 PM.  Nonetheless, a very nice side trip.

 

Il pleut — et pleut…

Saturday morning we woke to steady rain.  So, we did some laundry and hung our clothes to dry on the designated rack under the covered balcony, hoping our things would dry.  (Very few Europeans have or use clothes dryers.  Back home, we purchased a similar clothes drying rack and have started drying outside, when we are able.)  By early afternoon it was still raining — quite hard, so we declared a day off and, verily, it was.  Read, napped, sorted through a mountain of accumulated literature and logged our receipts.  Then as the rain pattered on the windows and we (ok, I)  watched a BBC gardening show (pure delight!), I made dinner. The stove is a challenge, but I managed. A much needed day of rest.

The next day, and still it rained, so we did some local exploring around the lake in the car.  Along the edge of Lake Geneva stand some grand old mansions  — circa early 1900’s.   Many appear to be still privately owned, while others have been transformed into elegant hotels. We had a nice drive, even walked around a bit, despite the constant rain…If only we could ship this sort of slow and steady rain to California!

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Happily, Monday dawned with just sprinkles — we had cabin fever and this 24/7 together can be trying.   We almost skipped out the door and caught our familiar little bus down to the Pully train station and then the train to Chateau Chillon- more info HERE if you’re interested.

A very pleasant train trip along the lake, through the vineyards and Montreaux.  The Chateau was amazing.  Wonderfully curated and interpreted.  The castle dates back to the 11th century but its present appearance dates back to the 13th century.  Chillon is most famous as the prison where François de Bonivard was held for 6 years and the inspiration for Byron’s poem “The Prisoner of Chillon” (note to self, must read once I get home).  Husband was in ancient building/architecture nirvana and explored every inch.  I wandered about content to climb about, looking out the ramparts, visiting the grand hall where the meals were served and watching the other tourists.  Here’s some photographic evidence of our visit.

Retrieved husband from the weapons gallery, where he was intently studying the chain mail and armor…upon coming back to the current century, he decided it was beer o’clock.

We walked down the path from the chateau, hopped back on the train and went into Lausanne to a recommended craft beer pub in old town…Les Brasseurs – photos of one happy husband below (thank goodness they had a decent house wine too).  And then as we were leaving, we saw two young dudes with a 3 liter beer tower with tap right at their own table… husband asked for photos and shook their hands while declaring bravo!