Il pleut — et pleut…

Saturday morning we woke to steady rain.  So, we did some laundry and hung our clothes to dry on the designated rack under the covered balcony, hoping our things would dry.  (Very few Europeans have or use clothes dryers.  Back home, we purchased a similar clothes drying rack and have started drying outside, when we are able.)  By early afternoon it was still raining — quite hard, so we declared a day off and, verily, it was.  Read, napped, sorted through a mountain of accumulated literature and logged our receipts.  Then as the rain pattered on the windows and we (ok, I)  watched a BBC gardening show (pure delight!), I made dinner. The stove is a challenge, but I managed. A much needed day of rest.

The next day, and still it rained, so we did some local exploring around the lake in the car.  Along the edge of Lake Geneva stand some grand old mansions  — circa early 1900’s.   Many appear to be still privately owned, while others have been transformed into elegant hotels. We had a nice drive, even walked around a bit, despite the constant rain…If only we could ship this sort of slow and steady rain to California!

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Happily, Monday dawned with just sprinkles — we had cabin fever and this 24/7 together can be trying.   We almost skipped out the door and caught our familiar little bus down to the Pully train station and then the train to Chateau Chillon- more info HERE if you’re interested.

A very pleasant train trip along the lake, through the vineyards and Montreaux.  The Chateau was amazing.  Wonderfully curated and interpreted.  The castle dates back to the 11th century but its present appearance dates back to the 13th century.  Chillon is most famous as the prison where François de Bonivard was held for 6 years and the inspiration for Byron’s poem “The Prisoner of Chillon” (note to self, must read once I get home).  Husband was in ancient building/architecture nirvana and explored every inch.  I wandered about content to climb about, looking out the ramparts, visiting the grand hall where the meals were served and watching the other tourists.  Here’s some photographic evidence of our visit.

Retrieved husband from the weapons gallery, where he was intently studying the chain mail and armor…upon coming back to the current century, he decided it was beer o’clock.

We walked down the path from the chateau, hopped back on the train and went into Lausanne to a recommended craft beer pub in old town…Les Brasseurs – photos of one happy husband below (thank goodness they had a decent house wine too).  And then as we were leaving, we saw two young dudes with a 3 liter beer tower with tap right at their own table… husband asked for photos and shook their hands while declaring bravo!

A beautiful drive & some touristy stuff

Aug 7

We checked out of our Hotel Eiger (sob) this morning and made our way down the gondola/train to the car.  Husband planned a back road route towards Guyeres — our planned side trip on the way back to our apartment in Lausanne.  Well planned – as the drive took us over the Jaunpass range and through some lovely countryside.

But as we descended down the other side of the pass, it got hotter and hotter.  Soon it was 90+° and the entirely wrong climate for the two admittingly-tourist things we planned 1) a chocolate factory in Broc and 2) a cheese manufacturing plant in outside of Gruyeres.

Steadfast, we carried on but, alarmingly — both were very touristy with buses dropping off hoards of other tourists.  We skipped the chocolate tour* but did take the little cheese tour…pretty lame, we could have saved our CHF’s (Swiss Francs).

Our final destination was the medieval village of Gruyeres  – a fortified town without cars.  We had to park way down the hill, so puffed our way up arriving sweaty and hot.  A really pretty village with plenty of charm, despite the brutal heat.

 

We had a little lunch and refreshment of local-made double cream with fresh berries and meringue cookies.  See how pretty and quite decadent given a pot of fresh local cream.  The last photo is the view from our table as we partook of this delightful treat.

Drove back to Lausanne with the air conditioning on until we reached Lake Geneva and the cool breezes in our apartment up top the hill.  The google map link for our apartment is HERE – zoom out and in to see the Lake and the vineyards – just down the hill.

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*Stupidly, we bought a variety of chocolate bars and thought they would survive buried in our trunk.  But alas, back at the apartment, we discovered we had very soft chocolate.  So, we put them in the fridge for a bit and then tried one later – wonderful!  So apologies to those who may receive chocolate bars gifts – trust us they taste wonderful – they just look a bit rough 🙁 …

 

Day 3 & 4 The Alps

Aug 5

We decide to go down into Lauterbrunnen today, as husband wants to visit an underground waterfall in some caves down there.  I pass (walking around in dark, damp underground pathways to see a waterfall- yeah, count me out).  So I wandered the town, bought a couple of souvenirs and then collapsed under an umbrella at an outdoor cafe for a mineral water– it was much hotter down in the valley.

Ended up talking with a man who lived down the valley and when we commented on the heat (almost 90°), he told me of the winters here.  Everyone skis every chance they get – even the seniors.  They use snowshoes to get into town.  He tells of the short days and long winter nights where everyone works on indoor projects.  The farmers carve new fence posts for the summer, the women knit, the children carve wooden tableaus for school projects and gifts.  Not many have central heating and usewoodstoves throughout the winter.  But, he reflects that this is a special season, a cozy time with family.  The outdoor winter activities seem to excite them as much as summer ones.

Here are some photos from husbands cave/waterfall expedition.

Later we took the cable car up and hiked a bit around the Grimmelwald area to explore further.  We had fun finding all the places Rick Steves visited on his Switzerland show.  Grimmelwald is his favorite place.  Check out this garden, more cow bells (I know, I know “more cow bell”…don’t think we didn’t chuckle over that old SNL skit – every time we saw cow bells.  But then, we are easily amused).  

The last photo is at the hostel Rick always stays in.  It’s run by an ancient man who still serves coffee and water with a smile.

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Aug 6  (with video – I know — look at us taking video)

Today we planned our most adventuresome hike – the North Face which gives incredible views of the Eiger and the other peaks in the range.  We start early and congratulate ourselves on another great weather day.

We brought our i-phone (a hand me down gift from our friends Jim & Melinda – thanks guys) so husband took a video of our hike today.  Click to view.

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Now some plain old – school photos.

We meet Brenda, the St. Bernard on the way up in the funicular.  Brenda guards the cafe and children’s area up top.   The children love her and she stoically accepts all petting and praise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And off we go, we watch the gondolas while catching our breath and then hold our breathe while going through a herd of cows.  The trail signs are as good (if not better) than road signs.  Very inspiring to see where we’re going and where we’ve been.

What you don’t see are our aching knees, tired feet and sore legs – but we couldn’t be happier.

Got back around 5pm as we were invited to a hotel-hosted champagne party (we booked for 4 nights so I guess we rated).

For our last night, we had reserved dinner at our hotel and having made casual acquaintances with some of the staff we were surprised with some extra treats at our dinner.  Most notably, an introduction to a taste of Raclette   which is — wait for it Mom — melted hot cheese scraped over toasted bread with pickles, potatoes and little condiments.

A perfect ending to our incredible visit to the Alps.

OK one more time BREATHTAKING (3)

 

 

 

Day 2 – The Alps

Aug 4

After an impressive hotel buffet breakfast (and secreted rolls w/cheese for lunch) we take the funicular up to Allendhubel and hike around the top and then down into Grimmelwald — a tiny village saved from development by declaring themselves an avalanche zone.  And in true independent fashion, the residents of Grimmelwald then petitioned the government to have proper avalanche barriers installed.  So, no development, no avalanches.

Snapping photos even as we walk the upper road in Murren.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And, yes cow bells are a thing here.  Farmers save the prettiest bells (below) to show off their prize cows, but use every day bells when their herds are out to pasture.  Different tones of the bells designate the ownership of the cows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the funicular up and up to Allendhubel – this photo is of one coming down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A beautiful day – did I mention we’re so high (2,000 meters/6,500 ft. today) that the spring wild flowers are still in bloom?  Beyond the breathtaking (2) vistas, as we hike we hear cow bells ringing all around us.  Truly, had to pinch myself.  It’s the Alps – it’s Heidi’s stomping ground.

 

Tired of snow covered mountain vistas are you?

OK, we’ll hike down into Grimmelwald. Up here in the Alps, every house, window box and spare inch of ground is planted with vegetables and flowers – (perennials).  I was told that the Swiss winters are so long and so harsh that the moment the ground softens – the flowers go in.  Such hope and optimism … as come October, snow returns.

On the way down, we see some Eldewiess – it’s Austria’s national flower, but it grows up here too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grimmelwald also has an adorable “honesty shop” (see above).  Filled with old dishes, some tacky souvenirs, ice creams, drinks and some very old postcards.  No one is there, one just leaves the money in an unlocked box. Bought an old, dusty postcard just so I could support such an effort.

We come back up to Murren (from Grimmelwald) via the gondola (our transportation pass is proving invaluable).

Watched the para-gliders for a bit.  Husband gave serious consideration the offered tandem rides, but soon came to his senses  (after I physically swatted him) and will consider such an adventure once home, where we have more accessible medical facilities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Decided to stop at a little cafe in lower Murren for a well-deserved drink.  Notice the sheepskin rugs on the chairs…the temps plummet once the sun goes down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After quick showers (umm heaven) we have a small dinner at a cute little restaurant in Murren and we’re in bed, sound asleep by 9:30.

Day 1 – The Alps

Photo Note:  Thanks to Connie* (the designer/architect behind this beautiful Book Barmy Blog) I discovered we’ve been taking photos with our (relatively new) camera in HD = meaning they are huge.  My apologies.  Halfway through our days in the Alps, we figured out how to take photos in a more manageable size.  So the later photos over the next couple of posts will be click-able to make big-able.

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Aug. 3 – We drive our exchange car to Lauterbrunnen about 1 1/2 hour trip.  Once in Lauterbrunnen we park in a garage which we booked for three days. Then we climb aboard a little train which gets us part of the way up and then we transfer to a gondola/cable car to reach Murren.  Murren is the car-free village at the base of the Eiger, Jungfrau and Mönch range of the Alps.  We booked the hotel ages ago and dreamt of this arrival for months.  (The hotel has a live webcam, and many mornings we would log on just to gaze at the views.)

 

First the little train gets us part of the way up.  Then the gondola gets us higher and higher

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s our hotel – perched on a cliff with lots of stairs.  Luckily, we packed light – just two backpacks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After check-in, we dump our bags and head for the very top.  Just too beautiful a day not to get out and up … and up … and up.  Our hotel package includes a transit card which gets us on all the little cable cars (gondolas), trains and funiculars that allow one to explore the highest most vantages and then start out for hikes at the summits.  But for today just strolling – first we head up to the Piz Gloria viewing station – also the setting for some really stupid 1968 James Bond film – but we want the views…and views we got.  Just take a look – breathtaking (1).

(1) keeping track of how many times I use the word breathtaking (just for you, Rand).

 

Husband does the obligatory pose with Bond, James Bond – sorry the photo is slightly out of focus, I was giggling at our hokeyness.

 

We had a coffee at the revolving restaurant – more hokey-ness but hey we’re tourists after all, and you can’t beat the view.

Came down from the heights – involves two gondolas and strolled up and down and around the little village of Murren.

Then back to our hotel – just in time for sunset beverages on our hotel terrace.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My Swiss rose wine is the same shade as the mountains… perfection (big happy sigh).

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*Connie is also a talented needlework/fiber artist – see her work HERE.

Disconnected in the Alps

We are luddites and don’t travel with a laptop – so no photos for awhile – as we are

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Taking day hikes using the cable cars, funiculars, and cog railways to get up high and hike around the summits.  Our hotel is perched on a ledge – over looking the Eiger.

I apologize in advance for the future posts (with photos) coming up on Travel Barmy – as my friend Rand said “the word breathtaking will be overused”.

Stay tuned, back to Lausanne and a computer on Friday or maybe Saturday…who knows?

Lausanne, July 30

Today we ventured into Lausanne, which involves a little shuttle van that runs every 30 mins. up and down our hill from the apartment complex.   Then it meets with a direct bus into Lausanne.

I must take a moment to tell you that the Swiss trains/buses run exactly to the minute all the time…I know! Just wrap your mind around that — to the minute!  I’ll give you a chance to process that.  Back now? OK, that means one can actually make a train transfer with only minutes to spare — as the Swiss have planned it so that the train (or bus) you are transferring to is precisely across the platform from your arriving train/bus.  Impressive. But… here’s a cruel reality check, Switzerland has the highest rate of suicide in Western Europe…attributed to their highly structured society.  So maybe our laid back and unpredictable US train/bus schedules have an upside.

The weather was clear and cool, perfect for going into the town.  We had our trusty Rick Steves book with his walking tour, so shameless tourists, we walked the town with guidebook in hand.  There are covered stairways, tunnels and little lanes that snake you up and up into the old town.   These are hills to rival those of our own San Francisco, but we didn’t really notice as there was so much to see…

Then there was the Cathedral de Lausanne…

Husband is fascinated by cathedrals and old churches wherever we travel — he’s not religious, but admires the history and architecture. Whereas I tend to groan and mutter “oh great – ADC* “.  I much prefer the culture, people and activity of a place.  Secretly, (don’t tell husband) in the end, I often enjoy our ventures into these musty ancient structures.

We even climbed the tower – 250+ steps for the extraordinary views…

It was now late afternoon and no lunch for us as we planned an early dinner at a recommended Swiss regional specialities restaurant.  So we did as all Europeans do and claimed a table at a outside cafe where we ordered drinks and just watched people come and go.

Fascinating how the locals use their street cafes – some came and went quickly gulping down a quick expresso, on their phones the whole time, before heading on.  Others meeting up with friends or business associates and linger for as long as they want.   In Europe, be it dinner, lunch, or just coffee — the table is yours for as long as you want…one has to make writing gestures and practically beg for the check. No tipping here in Switzerland (and most of Europe) as the waiters make a proper living with benefits – a few coins may be left if you especially appreciated the service.  Any more and they will chase you down the street to return your tip, as in “hey idiot, you left this money behind”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We watched a florist take in her flowers, and it was 6 pm and time for the ancient clock to go through some fun dancing figures.  Children chased soap bubbles and music drifted up from a street violin player.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbed back up the hill for our dinner at Cafe du Grutli.  It’s very (very!) expensive to eat out in Switzerland.  But, we just gulped and ordered – husband scored with a venison sausage dish that was made in house with venison from the proprietors brother’s weekend hunting expedition.  I had a yummy calves liver that was from a local farm and it was the best I’ve ever had (don’t judge, husband hates liver and the smell, so I dare never cook it – have to order it when I can).

 

 

 

 

 

 

After dinner, we wandered our way down the hills and tripped upon several “cave bars” — very popular drinking venues tucked under the bridges.  I climbed back up on the bridge to take the photo from above.  Given the tiredness of my feet, you must appreciate this effort -please?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hoofed it down the last few hills and onto our bus and once back at the apartment on the hill – we were greeted with this view of sunset-bathed alps from our deck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good night all.  Thanks for reading.

*ADC = another damn cathedral